From short shorts to face masks, handbags to Day-Glo hues, Helen Seamonspicks out the key trends to watch out for next year from the spring/summer 2019 menswear shows
It’s not regularly a menswear season takes the same number of features as the ongoing keep running of spring/summer 2019 shows, yet appropriate they did. Between Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones’ prominent separate introductions at Louis Vuitton and Dior Men, David Beckham’s first season as ambassadorial leader of the British Fashion Council (and a flashbulb-popping appearance at the Kent and Curwen introduction nearby spouse Victoria), Maison Margiela’s first menswear couture show and Calvin Klein inventive executive Raf Simons coming back to Paris to demonstrate his eponymous mark, the season turned into a persistent and revitalizing articulation of thoughts. Here are the eight fundamental patterns to take away.
Day-Glo dreams. Neon flew up on sports tops, holsters and body warmers at Louis Vuitton, on sweatshirts at MSGM, on shirts at Xander Chou, on cushioned plane coats at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy and on suiting at Acne and Versace. The upshot? There’s a flavor for each raver.
Force had been working all through New York, London, Florence and Milan, yet it was one of the last shows in Paris that solidified totes as a true blue pattern for the young men one year from now. Recently introduced aesthetic chief of Dior Men, Kim Jones, rethought the famous ladies’ Saddle pack out of the blue for men in rucksacks, cross-body and belt-sacks (prompt faction status).
Elsewhere, Jones’ successor back at Louis Vuitton, Virgil Abloh, was all about the handhelds; his red plastic Keepall bags are pegged to be a big hit. Prada and Versace also got the memo creating shoulder and cross-body styles, while clutch bags at Dunhill, lunch boxes at Kenzo and bucket bags courtesy of Lanvin. Safe to say it’s all about the bag.
The new look suit has been elevated for SS19 taking references from the 80s and incorporating couture craft. John Galliano at Maison Margiela unveiled his first artisanal collection in Paris and presented tailoring – like his womenswear – cut on the bias. Kim Jones at Dior, meanwhile, layered organza over embroidered wool to create a 3D effect.
Twofold breasted varieties came larger than usual and loose, styled with a streetwear wind at Dries van Noten, wide-legged pants and coaches at Paul Smith and with nothing underneath at Giorgio Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna. Shades, in the interim, went from modern dim to sherbet shades of violet, sky blue and flower petal pink.
At Cottweiler and Missoni they were made of cowhide; at Off-white, they were elasticated and energetic; at Fendi, they were given the twofold F treatment; at Hermés they were fresh and accuracy cut; and at Prada there were no less than 23 sets. Indeed, short shorts are immovably on the style motivation for SS19 – all that remaining parts is to pick a clan.
There’s no stopping the rise and rise of the trench coat. After dominating the womenswear collections, it has set menswear in its sights for SS19. It stole the show at Alexander McQueen, coming in cropped, two-tone and spliced sleeve iterations, while Neil Barrett got eclectic with an abstract oversized leaf print. Berthold and Ami kept it classic, confirming its perennial appeal. Time to belt up.